By designing with the end in mind and considering durability, construction, recyclability and production, designers who create products with ‘lower-cost’ ingredients bring us one step closer to a circular economy.
We need to rethink the way we calculate the cost of materials.
In addition to a material’s monetary cost, there is also an environmental
cost that considers resource extraction through disposal at the end of its
useful life; and all aspects of production, use and maintenance in between.
Throughout the lifecycle of materials are all of these indirect, hidden
costs — those linked to the reduction of resource availability, to the
uncontrolled use of depleting fossil
sources,
to the pollution of air and water, and the dispersion and environmental
impact of
microplastics.
All of which, in some way, can adversely affect the current and future state
of the planet.
A conscious designer who wants to create products based on the principles of
circularity
— where materials are not only recycled, but also
recyclable;
where the life of the product is not only extended, but made almost
infinite
— needs to prioritize these indirect, nearly hidden environmental costs when
selecting materials.
Selecting materials for conscious design
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To select materials with circularity in mind, a conscious designer will
consider the longevity and impact of their product. They should ask
themselves:
A product that is durable will last longer — requiring less maintenance and
need for replacement. A product that is repairable and
reusable,
as well as easily dismantled and recycled, is less likely to end up in the
landfill and more likely to find new or extended life.
The issue of releasing microplastics is a more recent consideration in terms
of material cost. Designers must not only understand the environmental
impact of
microplastics,
but also how the materials selected and production process used affect the
release of microplastics.
Reducing the release of microplastics
Microplastics are tiny plastic particles that are typically fragments of
larger plastic objects. Because microplastics are so small, they can
significantly impact human health and the overall environment when released
— even potentially entering our bloodstream, tissue and cells.
ISO recently released the new standard method: ISO
4484-2:2023.
Aquafil, the National Research Council of
Italy’s Institute of Intelligent Industrial Technologies and Systems for
Advanced Manufacturing (STIIMA) and
the Textile Commission of UNI CT 046 developed this methodology for
the standard determination of microplastics released from textile sectors.
Thanks to this methodology, it will be easier to identify and quantify the
different effects of factors affecting the release of microplastics from
textiles.
The method provides a way to measure the release of microplastics and
demonstrates that materials that are more durable and resilient also happen
to produce less microplastics.
With ISO 4484-2, it will be easier to determine how several variables can affect
the creation and release of microplastics from the textile sector:
-
The type of fiber or yarn: A staple fiber is made of a set of fibers of
limited length that are held together mechanically by twisting; and is more
likely to fray and release microparticles than a bulk, continuous fiber —
simply due to the construction.
-
The material that makes up the fiber: The chemical and mechanical
characteristics of a fiber play a crucial role in its performance — some are
more sturdy and better able to withstand mechanical stress, abrasion, wear
and exposure to harsh environments before breaking.
-
The construction of the fabric: Products made without interruptions in
the material are generally less likely to release their components, compared
to those made from multiple pieces or types of yarn or thread.
-
The product’s reaction to maintenance: Some fibers are able to better
endure mechanical stress from maintenance — such as washing — throughout
their life cycle than others.
-
The wear and aging of a product: The breakdown into microparticles is
usually associated with conditions of use and the specific exposure to
chemical and environmental factors, which can act together to accelerate the
deterioration process.
Making a cost-effective choice
Conscientious designers have the opportunity to reduce or even eliminate the
“forever” cost of materials to our planet through one simple choice: the
ingredients they use. By designing with the end in mind and considering
durability, construction, recyclability and production, designers who create
products with “lower-cost” ingredients bring us one step closer to a
circular economy.
Published Feb 26, 2024 8am EST / 5am PST / 1pm GMT / 2pm CET
Innovation Research & Development Coordinator
Aquafil