Colorifix's technology uses DNA sequencing to replicate nature's hues into
sustainable pigments, curbing the industry's overreliance on water- and
chemical-intensive dyeing processes.
In the world of textile manufacturing, the vibrant colors that enrich our
fabrics often conceal a less appealing truth: the environmental toll of
traditional dyeing processes. Conventional textile dyeing methods, characterized
by their excessive water consumption and reliance on toxic chemicals, present a
formidable challenge to sustainability — a single kilogram of fabric
dyed
using conventional methods can require up to 150 liters of water, contributing
to water-scarcity issues and environmental degradation. This not only poses a
threat to aquatic ecosystems; it also amplifies the industry's carbon footprint,
given the energy required to heat large volumes of water.
The impact of such practices extends beyond the environmental concerns to human
health and community wellbeing. Workers in conventional dyeing facilities often
face exposure to hazardous chemicals, risking their well-being and safety.
Moreover, the runoff from dyeing facilities can contaminate local water sources
— affecting communities that rely on these resources for their health and
livelihoods.
A biomimetic approach
Recognizing the urgent need for change, the textile industry is innovating to
create more sustainable solutions — especially those derived from natural
sources. Enterprising startups are upcycling plant
waste
and even textile
waste
into dyes; while some are utilizing
algae
as a carbon-negative, fast-to-produce alternative to the carcinogenic,
petroleum-based inks, dyes and textiles that proliferate the industry. Another,
UK-based Colorifix, is using DNA sequencing to
replicate colors from natural organisms — a beautiful example of the innumerable
solutions to be found through
biomimicry.
The startup – founded in 2016 by two
synthetic biologists, Jim
Ajioka and Orr
Yarkoni, who were developing
biological sensors at the University of
Cambridge
to monitor heavy metal contamination in drinking water in rural Nepal — says
it’s the first company to use solely biological processes to produce, deposit
and fix pigments into textiles. Colorifix’s biomimetic approach to textile
dyeing employs microbes to fix color onto fabrics, eliminating the need for vast
amounts of water and toxic chemicals.
“In simple terms, Colorifix takes all of the harsh chemistry required in
conventional dyeing and replaces it with biology. The process entirely cuts out
the use of harsh chemicals and leads to a significant reduction in water and
energy consumption,” Chris
Hunter,
Chief Operating Officer at Colorifix, tells Sustainable Brands®. “In the
dyeing industry, many harsh and toxic auxiliary chemicals are introduced at the
fixing stage. Our process, however, is inspired by the way in which mold or
mildew can stain things. We use our microorganisms to produce, deposit and fix
pigments on fabric without adding any petrochemicals.”
Colorifix's process begins with identifying a naturally occurring color in
organisms such as plants, insects or microbes. Utilizing online DNA sequencing,
Colorifix extracts the genetic code responsible for pigment production. This
genetic information is then translated into an engineered microorganism capable
of replicating the pigment's natural production.
After developing this color-producing microbe, Colorifix sends a small vial to
textile mills or dye houses; and supports them in cultivating the color through
on-site fermentation. This process mimics the growth of microorganisms on
renewable feedstocks such as sugar, yeast and plant byproducts — producing a
vibrant dye liquor within days. Unlike conventional dyeing methods that involve
harsh chemicals and heavy metals, Colorifix's engineered microorganisms
concentrate nutrient salts and metals already present in water — facilitating
the dye-fabric interaction without the need for additional substances.
Changing an industry
Colorifix's process produced the colors in Vollebak's recent DNA collection | Image credit: Vollebak
One of the primary hurdles facing Colorifix lies in reshaping the practices of
an industry deeply entrenched in century-old methods. Despite offering a plug-in
solution with mills and dye houses as our primary customers, partnerships with
major fashion brands will be indispensable in driving this transformative shift.
“Our goal is for Colorifix’s dyeing solution to become the standard in the
industry, which is not a small task,” Hunter admits. “But we’ve designed our
process and business model to make sure it can be a true alternative; so,
scalability is key.”
Colorifix’s technology is cost-effective and compatible with current industrial
infrastructure to minimize barriers to adoption and reduce social disruption and
job loss, while its semi-distributed business model cuts down on carbon
emissions and encourages circular economies in textile-manufacturing regions.
The company has strategically engaged with three distinct customer sites across
Europe, effectively showcasing the efficacy of its technology across various
dyeing stages — including yarn, fabric, garment and printing across a diverse
spectrum of natural and synthetic fibers. Through these collaborative ventures,
Colorifix is not only proving the feasibility of disrupting established
processes — it’s also laying the groundwork for a paradigm shift in the textile
industry.
In April 2021, H&M became the first brand to introduce Colorifix-dyed
products in its Colour Story
collection.
A subsequent collaboration with
Pangaia followed later that year; and
in fall 2023, it collaborated with
Vollebak on its DNA
T-shirt.
“These collaborations show that our dyeing technology provides high-quality
products to market while significantly lowering the impact of producing them,”
says Marketing Manager Nora
Eslander. “As we continue
to scale, we will work closely with more world-leading brands and together
change the industry to create a better future for our planet.”
While Colorifix’s technology eliminates the use of harmful substances throughout
the dyeing process, the company actively assesses its overall environmental
impact — employing measures to monitor and enhance sustainability at each stage.
A recent Life Cycle Analysis
(LCA)
comparing the conventional dyeing process to Colorifix's approach, focusing on
dyeing and final washes of 1 kg of knit jersey (52 percent recycled cotton, 48
percent recycled polyester), showed a reduction of at least 53 percent in
electricity consumption, a 31 percent decrease in CO2 emissions, and 77 percent
less water utilization.
In fall 2023, Colorifix was named a finalist for the prestigious Earthshot
Prize
and earned the OEKO-TEX Eco Passport
accreditation
— which affirms that its dyes are free from hazardous chemicals, cytotoxins,
skin allergens and skin irritants.
“Given the scalability of our technology and the increasing regulatory
tailwinds, our objective is to ultimately set the overall industry standard in
the long run. In a vast market such as textiles, even a modest penetration can
yield substantial profits; but this is not our primary focus. Our motivation
stems from driving systemic change and making a significant mainstream impact,”
Hunter asserts. “We know that this transformation will take time, and even
achieving a market penetration in the low single digits within the next 5 years
would be a noteworthy accomplishment.”
Published Mar 7, 2024 8am EST / 5am PST / 1pm GMT / 2pm CET
Scarlett Buckley is a London-based freelance sustainability writer with an MSc in Creative Arts & Mental Health.